Number of Peaks Climbed |
2 |
Peaks Climbed |
Redfield and Cliff |
Peak Height Ranks |
15 and 44 |
Trailed / Trailess Peaks |
0 / 2 |
Peak Numbers |
30 and 31 |
Total Elevation Gain |
6795 feet |
14 July 2009
Upper Works to Lake Colden: Leaving the parking lot at
the extreme north end of Upper Works Road we hit the Calamity
Brook Trail. After an
almost immediate wrong turn that took us down to the lake shore
we got back on the Calamity Brook Trail and were off for Lake
Colden. The first 2 miles were easy grade and extremely well
maintained. But it was wet and the mosquitoes and gnats were
actually quite bad. Thank goodness for Cutter's! Then the grade
picked up substantially and the trail got quite rocky. With full
packs that was less fun than it could have been, but overall it
wasn't bad. Unfortunately, it was a bit harder on Kristy
given that she wasn't feeling particularly good at the beginning
of the trail due to the pregnancy. We were unsure enough of the
the trail ahead of us and the time remaining before dark that we
were pushing hard and blew right past Calamity Pond without
noticing it. At about the 5 mile mark we hit Flowed Lands Pond
and the McLean LeanTo. Kristy was feeling pretty beat at this
point and it was a reasonable stopping point because our original plan
included Mount Marshall, the herd path for which starts at
Flowed Lands and the McLean LeanTo. The light intermittent
rain we'd experienced along the way so far also decided to get a bit
heavier and steady at this point. Luckily for us, as it turns
out, the LeanTo
was occupied and although we'd brought our tents we had really
hoped to get a LeanTo on this trip. So it was easier to convince
ourselves to push on to Lake Colden. The trail from McLean LeanTo to Lake Colden, while extremely well maintained, is
actually more than a little difficult. There is a fairly rapid drop
in elevation leading Northeast from Flowed Lands and that plus a
little more must be regained to reach Lake Colden. The overall
grade is not terrible, but there are a lot of 4 to 8 foot rock
scrambles along the way that were not a lot of fun with full
packs. But nothing really bad. We reached the Lake Colden Dam at
about 1930 with a good two hours remaining before full dark. The LeanTo East of the Dam was full, but there is another LeanTo
just Northwest of the Dam that had one hiker in residence. He
was still out on the trail when we arrived and started setting
up our "camp". The sky looked menacing but the rain
let up after we'd arrived.
Lake Colden LeanTo: Located next to the lake we
had great access to water and were able to enjoy a nice hot meal
before dark. Our LeanTo companion arrived back at the LeanTo
about an hour after we arrived and and we talked about his day's
hike and all of our hiking plans for the next day before bunking
down. We enjoyed reading some of the log books in the LeanTo - unfortunately
they are filled with mostly very sophomoric gibberish as each
correspondent attempts to out-absurd the previous.
15 July 2009
Opalescent River Trail to Uphill LeanTo: We were up about 0530
and heading up the hill to retrieve our food we saw that one of
the bear canisters of the other campers in the area had been
broken into. Bear canisters are now required in the
Eastern Peaks
from 30 April to 1 November and that is a very good thing.
But them thar bars are wily! The unlucky camper had a
Bear Vault 500 that Adirondacks Black Bears have cracked the
code on. If you're heading into the High Peaks region,
definitely get a
Garcia bear canister. It's the only canister that the New
York State Department of Environmental Conservation will rent
you if you show up to camp without one.
After Pop-Tarts and readying our packs we were off on the
Opalescent River Trail. This trail is extremely well worn but
can be a patience builder. The first half mile is largely along
the Opalescent River and is quite steep. As the trail leaves the brook the
ascent continues at a fairly steep clip. The trail, again, is
very well worn but it's a frustrating hike due to the abundance
of rocks and tree roots criss-crossing the path. The growth of
either side of the trail is also quite close resulting in
persistent brushing against limbs along the way. The last
quarter mile or so opens up a bit more until reaching the trail
head to the herd path that initially follows Uphill Brook.
Uphill Brook Herd Path to Mount Redfield: The herd path
itself is well established. The grade starts out steep and grows
gradually steeper all the way up to the area of the peak. The
total ascent from the herd path trail head is about 1400 feet
with a linear distance hike of about 1.2 miles for an average
grade of about 14%. Redfield is the 15th highest peak with an
elevation of 4606 feet. The day
before had been wet and although the day was bright and dry the
hike itself was close among the trees that were loaded with
morning dew so that I stayed wet all morning. Kristy has some nice
wicking tops and was able to keep relatively dry. As high as
Redfield is, the trees restrict the potentially awesome views of
Algonquin, Iroquois, Colden, Marcy, Haystack, etc. (some of
which are peaking through the trees behind us in the summit
pictures) but there is a great view of Allen.
Money Shots: Mount Redfield (30) - Summit
2009-07-15 08:30 EDT
Down Uphill Brook: Down, down, down. Some hikes are a
lot of work up to a ridge that affords the summiting of a few
peaks before heading back. Just for the record - in order for a
peak to count it must be either a one-half mile separation from
or a 250 foot vertical drop between it and the nearest
recognized peak. The vertical drop from Redfield to the
col between it and Cliff (essentially the Uphill Brook trail
head) is about 1400 feet. So climbing Redfield from the herd
path trail head offered no
headway toward Cliff.
On the way down Redfield we ran into our LeanTo neighbor from
the previous night heading up and learned that it was his bear
canister that had been raided the night before. He sadly
reported to us that although the bear had left him one good meal
for the day he'd otherwise been cleaned out and was therefore
changing his original plans to stay in for several more days and
summit several more peaks to knocking off Redfield and heading
straight out to the Upper Works parking lot. That's a hard
lesson and that I hope he doesn't have to experience again!
Cliff Mountain: Having worked our way back down almost
to the Uphill Brook trail head we found the cairn marking the
herd path to Cliff easily. Cliff is a much shorter mountain than
Redfield (only 3960 feet, and therefore only a "4000 foot" peak
by definition) but that doesn't mean the hike isn't a lot of
work - especially after working all the way back down to 3300
feet! It's a steep climb to the false summit and Cliff comes by
it's name honestly. There were two sets of cliffs along path
that had to be negotiated. You don't go straight up the cliffs
but via switchbacks and work arounds but there are definitely
some decent rock climbs ranging from 5 to 15 feet that must be
negotiated to reach the summit - well - the false summit! Did I
mention that? You work pretty hard to make it to the false
summit at 3950 feet. You then have more that a quarter mile of
frustrating work to make the real summit a whopping 10 feet
higher! The ADK46rs do some maintenance on the "unmaintained"
trails. I have a suggestion... shave 6 feet of dirt off the top
of Cliff and haul it over to the false summit!!!
No views.
Money Shots: Cliff Mountain (31) - Summit 2009-07-15 12:35 EDT
Back to the Opalescent Trail: After taking the rock
scrambles and steep trail back down to the Uphill Brook trail
head we headed back down the Opalescent Trail toward Lake
Colden. The downward pitch didn't make the close branches or
exposed roots crossing the path any less frustrating, but,
again, not bad. We were definitely able to appreciate some of
the views of Algonquin and Colden briefly exposed along the way.
If you make this hike don't miss the opportunity to enjoy the
open rock along the Opalescent River heading down toward Lake
Colden. We ran into several women who had just summited Mount
Redfield heading back down the Opalescent Trail. They were
moving a little faster than us so we let them pass us. Shortly
after that we came upon them enjoying a well deserved hot lunch
on a large open rock surface beside a fall in the river. We took
a 10 minute break to share our hiking stories and learned that
they'd done Marshall the previous day and were all above 40
closing in on 46 fast.
The day's hike was a good workout. Redfield by itself from the
Upper Works Parking Lot and back is rated A+ by the ADK. That
hike includes the 5.5 miles from the parking lot to Lake Colden
we didn't do that day, but it also doesn't include summiting
Cliff which is probably a pretty reasonable replacement - so I
guess that would be the day's efforts at about an A- or possibly
an A.
Back at the LeanTo: We arrived back at the LeanTo at
about 1630 and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon of hot meals and
beautiful views. With two more peaks under our belts, a
generally enjoyable hike along the way, and truly excellent
weather we were very optimistic about our plans for the next
day. Our original plans, which we'd left flexible, were now
pretty firmly fixed on heading up from Lake Colden to the col
between Algonquin and Iroquois for a summit of Iroquois and
possibly a return to Algonquin. We had
missed Iroquois on our
previous hike up Algonquin because of driving, horizontal rain
slightly above freezing coming out of the Southwest (i.e., the
direction of the ridge line to Iroquois). If you are an aspiring
46er and you summit Algonquin on a nice day - SUMMIT Iroquois AT
ALL COSTS! The number of pleasant days on top of Algonquin in
any given year is relatively small.
About 1800 two hikers came through camp having just summited
Algonquin and Iroquois fairly excited and looking for shots of
the two peaks from Lake Colden to document their achievement.
Having spent two afternoons in camp at this point I quickly
directed them to an excellent vantage point and looked on as
they took their pictures on what they described as an amazing
day to be up on the peaks. Can you believe I didn't take the
same picture?! Well, there's always tomorrow...
Evening: About an hour before dark another hiker came
through camp. He was on a sponsored trip for
Eastern Mountain
Sports and we had a really enjoyable evening talking about
our hikes that day and plans for tomorrow. He originally planned
to continue on to another site, but after visiting for a few
minutes he decided to bunk down with us. Among other things, his
sponsorship with Eastern Mountain Sports meant that he was
expected to both advertise his sponsor and provide helpful
advice to hikers. He did a great job at that including showing
off his gaiters (which we purchased before our
next hike to
great benefit), cooking gear, prepared camping meals,
ultraviolet water sterilizer, and other products. Unfortunately,
we forgot his name and took the effort to visit EMS in Lake
Placid and back at home in Northern Virginia to see if anyone
knew his name and to give him a favorable report. If anyone
reading this knows who he is please let me know!
Onto Day 3: Over the course of the night the rain moved
in... along with some electrical activity. By morning the
electrical activity seemed to have calmed down a bit but the
rain continued. We were up at 0530 preparing for the hike but
waited on the rain before hitting the trail. Breakfast was
Pop-Tarts, as usual, which we ate leisurely while enjoying (?)
the peaceful rain. There is a substantial bog between Algonquin
and Iroquois which must be traversed to reach Iroquois and you
generally don't want to do that in the rain. Also, the amount of
open rock and very steep trail that come with summiting Iroquois
and Algonquin from Lake Colden is enough that you don't want to
do that in the rain either (remember my comment about our
previous hike up Algonquin?). Last but not least, there was
still some electrical activity in the area and, you know, it's
probably not a good idea working on your best lightning rod
impression up on a High Peaks ridge with lightning in the area!
So after waiting until about 0700 I called the hike and we
packed and headed back out to Upper Works. About half way out
the rain stopped. By the time we got to our car the sky broke
and we saw some Sun! But all later views of Algonquin confirmed
that the improved weather in the valleys that day was NOT
reflected on the summit.
Lake Placid: With our daughter Rachel safe in the care of Kristy's Aunt
Cheryl and days left in our originally planned vacation we
headed toward Lake Placid. Kristy suggested that we had enough
time to summit Rocky Peak that afternoon. Rocky Peak was another
"orphan" we'd had to pass on during a
previous trip. We parked
in St. Huberts at the trail head for Giant Mountain and found it
as menacingly cloud covered as Algonquin had been that morning.
Kristy was still game for at least starting out to see how the
hike looked but I vetoed it. With the hike scratched for the day
I argued for a drive home that would have gotten us in about
2200. Kristy wanted to stay to see if the weather was better the
next day. With a little arm twisting I relented and we drove
into Lake Placid for a shower, hot meal, and a bed to wait out
the morning. The weather reports in Lake Placid all afternoon
called for thunder showers all evening and the following day. We
watched for them all evening and they never arrived. Both of us
slept just lightly enough that we were awake more than once
during the night and we never heard any rain. Up at the crack of
dawn (well, actually a little earlier) and on the road the day
actually looked favorable on the way out of Lake Placid. Heading
down Route 73 toward Keene Valley, however, we started running
into rain. On and off. Mostly light, but sometimes heavy. We
completed the drive down to St. Huberts and parked. It wasn't
raining there at the time, but we stood and stared up at a cloud
shrouded Giant for about 10 minutes before I called it and we
headed back. It took about half an hour but the rain came as we
wended our way down the Adirondack Northway. Checking the
weather in Lake Placid when we got home confirmed it had rained all
day. We'd originally planned for 5 mountains (Allen, Marshall,
Iroquois, Redfield, and Cliff) and only got 2. When Kristy was
pregnant with Rachel we
climbed 5 peaks
(Macomb, South Dix, East Dix, Hough, and Dix). This year we only
got 2, but it's still early in the year. And Kristy is
determined that we get more...
Next trip: We might return this year for Rocky Peak,
Iroquois, and Marshall. Or maybe Allen.
Child stats: When Kristy was pregnant for Rachel we
climbed 5 peaks: Macomb, South Dix, East Dix, Hough, and Dix
(well, South Dix twice!). Kristy was pregnant this trip so the new baby has also
climbed 2 peaks so far: Redfield and Cliff. Kristy is
pushing strongly for a second trip
this year after only making two peaks this trip (in part because
the new baby currently trails Rachel by 3 peaks!).